The Golden Age of British Ale

Back in the early 1970s, the British beer scene was ruled by the 'Big Six'. Like in many countries, big industrial brewers closed regional breweries to promote national and international brands. This was when CAMRA was born. Now 40 years young, CAMRA is not resting on its laurels, but is continuing the fight against regressive tax laws and promoting traditional, small batch real ale. In fact, due to the hard work and dedication of this great organization, there are now twice as many small, craft breweries operating in Britain than when they began. The real ale revival is reflected in CAMRAs membership, now some 115,000 strong. I've also heard quotes of up to 850 breweries now operating, a impressive number. This is truly a Golden Age for British Ale. As mass market beers stagnate, and many pubs face closure, real ale continues to grow and prosper, and at such a rate that even the annual Good Beer Guide cannot keep their listings totally current.
That said, I had my work cut out for me. Staggering are the numbers of pubs listed in the Good Beer Guide 2011 I picked up upon my arrival, but also just the sheer number of pubs everywhere. There are literally dozens within walking distance of where I was staying. Dana made me o short list of a few places she knew, and book in hand, I set out. My first stop was the Port of Call in Clifton, claiming to be the oldest pub on Clifton hill, dating back to 1760. It has a small L shaped room featuring 4 real ales on the hand pump, and like any British pub I've been in, people are friendly and well informed. This is where I met John and Dave, two regulars, and Dave the barkeep, who schooled me on the local and national scene. I started the day with Cotleigh New Harvest (4%), a golden bitter. Subtle hop aroma leads to citric elements on first sip, but slowly fresh hops come to fore on the palate, balancing the good malt base. It also has a creamy mouthfeel and a long, smooth finish. They also had Sharp's Doom Bar (4%), a bitter from Cornwall presents a malty nose, with a good balance featuring citric notes, fruity palate that dries out nicely in the finish. Some small traditional pubs still close for part of the afternoon, so John and Dave took me down some stairs on a tiny side street to the Beaufort Arms, as Dave the barkeep closed up the Port of Call. This pub did have national real ale casks on: Fuller's London Pride (4.1%, dark gold, malt nose, classic beautiful balance between hop and malt, dry finish) and Young's Bitter (3.7%, pale gold, slight hop aroma, every sip lacing the glass, hop accented built on a good malt base, hints of citrus, dry finish), but I had been brought here to taste some fresh 'rough' cider. Bristol and environs are famous for their orchards and therefore is a centre for cider making, and fall just happens to be the time one can find wonderfully fresh, real still ciders served from casks. Thatcher's Dry Cider is still and a cloudy orange colour with an apple-fruity nose, definite sour apple palate, balanced towards a a drier finish. Tauton Cider is pale yellow, not as cloudy, but slightly hazy with a touch more carbonation, warm apple palate, nice even finish. Cider was the traditional drink of the working man, John told me, and is therefore about 2/3 the price of ale. The place to go in Bristol to taste all the marvelously fresh ciders in the area is The Apple, aka the Cider Barge, down on the city's harbour front. This could be a whole other tour! I thanked my mentors and wandered on my way. Next, to the Coach and Horses, a more modern pub, for a pint of Butcombe Bitter (4%). A lovely, classic dark bitter, malty nose with hints of hop, an even balance with bitterness ascending on the palate, some light peppery notes with a dry, clean bitter finish. I then finished the afternoon at the Jersey Lily, a lovely modern, wood accented room right on the high street, featuring 6 real ales in casks. I went for the award winning St. Austell Tribute (4.2%) medium bodied, copper coloured premium ale, slight citric hop sitting nicely on the malty architecture underneath, with a smooth and light mouthfeel, beautiful stalactite lacing on the glass, and a dry, hoppy finish.
On my walk back up the hill I noticed a small poster in the window of the King's Arms, advertising a cheese tasting with British beer, cider and wine. Sounded like something I should check out.