Soaking in the Suds in Chodová Planá

When Leslie first told me about a ‘beer spa’ somewhere outside of Prague, I was intrigued. After all, in Central Europe there are many ‘wellness’ spas of one sort or another. Mineral springs and therapeutic centres for improving your health, visited by many tourists and locals alike, have been operating for hundreds of years, but I had never heard of a ‘beer spa’. So I went online and found the Pravé Pivní Lázně, part of the Chodovar Brewery in Chodová Planá. This facility has been in operation since 1992, run by the Plevka family, who started brewing in 1962, but claim to be part of a local brewing heritage that dates back to 1573. The brewery has its own well and soft, mineral rich water springs from the granite massif below that runs through the entire area. They also bottle and market this ‘ferrous acidulous’ water under the name Il Sano. The brewery is part of a complex in the centre of town that includes the Hotel U Sládku, The Old Malt House Restaurant and The Beerarium, a brewing museum. They make 8 different products under the Chodovar label and below the site ancient carved-out granite cellars are still in use today to age their beers. Their spa packages include beer baths, massage, hot stone treatments and various other therapeutic ‘wellness’ cures. It all sounds (and is) very impressive, but had I known how hard it was to get there, I might have reconsidered, or at least rented a car.
The Czech train system is the antithesis of its German neighbors. It’s like going back in time, nothing seems to run on time, and no one is in any hurry to help you or move forward into the future. The trains themselves are, for the most part, decrepit beasts of burden that have seen better days. In my rural wanderings I have also seen many rusted out cars left at old railway sidings to the ravages of time and nature. So, I guess I should not have been too surprised when, partway through my journey from Prague to Chodová Planá, it was announced that there were problems on the tracks ahead and we all had to disembark to be transported by bus for the next part of the journey. Finally arriving in Mariánské Lázně well past dusk, I realized I had missed my connection and would have to wait a full hour and a half in order to go the final 5 kilometers. I went to speak to the station agent on duty in order to find a taxi, but he spoke no English, and it became obvious that there were no taxis. Speaking no Czech myself, I must have looked rather lost and dejected at this point, but as luck would have it, an off duty employee offered to take me in her own car, a trip of about 10 minutes. The hotel was locked up tight and as dark as the surrounding countryside, but I did notice a door bell and rang it. Five minutes later, the night manager (who also spoke no English), opened the door, checked me in and I retired to my room, exhausted and ready for a beer. Oddly, the whole place was quiet as a mouse, the restaurant was closed (it was 9:30) and I could not find the bar, if there was one. My beer spa was scheduled for the next morning, so until then, I’d have to be happy with the small supply of Chodovar beers in the mini bar in my room. I enjoyed a bottle of their Prezident Premium and a Svetly Cerné and went to bed.
Next morning I was excited for my spa. I descended the brick stairwell into the ancient arched chamber and found the spa room behind a heavy, carved wooden door. Ah, and someone spoken English! Enough anyway. I ditched my clothes, wrapped myself up in a toga-like big white sheet and was led to a long room, where 6 or 8 huge tubs, separated by pull curtains, awaited. Dropping the sheet, I slide into the warm beer bath and looked around. There was a giggling couple in a larger tub one curtain over, and three Russian fellows were having an animated conversation punctuated with laughter across the floor. There was low, relaxing music playing, though the atmosphere seemed more upbeat than chill. Still, it was relaxing. The literature says the bath is a mixture of mineral waters, unique dark ‘bath’ beer, including hops, curative herbs and beer yeast. The procedures’ purpose is to ‘harmonize organic functions, provide mental rest, reconditioning and muscle relaxation’. It is also supposed to have a curative effect on complexion and hair. Of course, a cold glass of Chodovar beer is provided on the side table. A bit of tan foam floated about the tub and though the temperature was not hot, it was warm enough to be comfortable. I closed my eyes and thought about my Czech adventure and decided this was worth the journey. When else would I ever get a chance to soak in a big tub of beer? The laughter subsided and I sank into my own thoughts.
It did not seem long before my 20 minutes was up. I was helped out of the tub, wrapped once again in the white sheet and led into long dark room. This was the 20 minute resting period after the spa. With another glass of beer waiting, I was wrapped in a second layer, in a huge warm towel and laid down on a comfortable cot. The lights were a low glowing orange and the music even softer, the other bodies in the room seemed to be asleep. It wasn’t long before I drifted off too. Soon I was gently awakened and told not to shower for 4 hours. That wouldn’t be a problem, as I dressed. I had to check out and figure out how to get to Plzen, the last stop on my Czech adventure. “No problem”, I was told at the front desk. “There is a bus station right across the street.” I stepped out into the warming sun of midday, dragged my bags over to the bus stop, could make no sense of the posted schedule, but at check out I was given a route and told the bus would be along in 15 minutes.
It took 3 buses, two transfers and 3 hours to reach Plzen. But it was a beautiful day, I was relaxed, I met some helpful people along the way and as I disembarked at the main bus terminal, there was a huge billboard pointing the way to my hotel. Life was good.