Stuttgart is the home to Bosch, Porsche and Daimler and therefore very modern by European standards. Founded in 950 as a stud farm for the local nobility, it only became an actual town in the 11th century. It is not a pretty city, history over the years having ravaging its charm, but someone should have asked the city planners in the modern era, what the hell were thinking. It is a hodge-podge of baffling streets, a confusing subway system and a general population that is not helpful. Street numbers bare no relation to those on the opposite side, and some even have the same name, though they go off in perpendicular directions. The countryside surrounding the city is actually beautifully manicured into terraced vineyards, for this is a famous wine growing region. It is also home to Germany's second largest 'Volkfest' and beer festival, but after my experience in Munich, I decline to visit the fair grounds and instead searched out pubs and restaurants in the city in order to get a real taste of Stuutgart. Dinkelacker–Schwaben AG and Stuttgarter Hofbrau are the major players here, but there are also a few pubs that brew their own.
My first stop was the Hacienda Tu 8, a very dark, large basement bar/restaurant below an ice cream store, featuring a Mexican menu and three beers from the Stuttgarter Hofbrau. They had a Helles and a Schwarzebier, but I opted for the Keller Pils. Just so happened I was there at happy hour, so two glasses arrived in front of me, which was a good thing, as I was thirty from my walkabout finding a hotel for the night. It was tasty with a fresh nose, moussy white head, that produced great lacing and was a slightly hazy straw colour. It was nicely balanced with a few citric notes, light in body, sparkling on the palate with a refreshing finish. I would have stayed for another, but I had my heart (and stomach) set on the Brauerei Gaststatte Dinkelacker. They had 6 beers on tap, plus their special ‘Volksfestbier’, as well as 9 bottles. I started with the Cluss Keller Pils. I'm really getting to like these naturally carbonated and aged cellar brews, and I was not disappointed. It exhibited an herbal nose with some buried fruitiness, hazy pale yellow colour and loose lacing from the porous white head. A velvety mouthfeel lead to a good balanced palate with a slightly sweet malt presence and a light finish. This went very well with the three course Volksfest meal I ordered, starting with a delicious mushroom soup and the odd bacon and peppercorn laced expresso cup of grease (presumably to spread on the bread provided). Next came the Schawben Brau das Schwarze. It was almost black with some burgundy hues and served in a beautiful tall stemmed glass, with a tan coloured head, fresh aroma and a surprisingly light flavour for such a deep, dark brew. It has a well balanced, malt accented palate, with some roastiness prevalent, tones of black malt bitterness in the finish, but not overpowering. This went very well with the onion and gravy smothered ‘wurst’ course, served with a lovely vinegar tinged side of cold potatoes and cucumbers. Yummy! By now I was hoping for some hops, so finished my meal there with what might be considered their flagship beer, Dinkelacker CD – Pils. Big, rocky, frothy head with some hop notes (at last!), clear pale gold colour with an initial crisp bite that mellows into an understated bitterness balanced against a smooth malty character finishing pleasantly dry. I do recommend this place, and it just so happened to be the tap room for the giant brewery in behind. As I left the restaurant, the wonderful aroma of the brewers art filled the air. The musty smell of malt mashing was everywhere in the city centre. Losing my way back to the hotel, I stumbled upon Sophie’s Brauhaus, and followed the art deco themed art work up a set of stairs to this second floor brewpub. There I found a large, rambling room with a number of small copper tanks in one corner. OK, time for a night cap. I choose their Schwarzbier, very black with a creamy tan head, with not much in the way of aroma, but with a brightness on the tongue that trickles down to a very smooth palate, notes of black malt with enough hop to dry out the finish nicely.
Thank goodness the places I visited were not full of drunken tourists. That experience was for those who wandered out to the fair grounds and into the big beer tents. I enjoyed walking through the quiet of the after-hours city centre, with its pedestrian walkways surrounded by modern glass and steel shopping malls and tall office buildings. It was a nice change, but I think I’m ready for more cobblestone and tiny, winding alleys.
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