Munich was founded in 1158 on the banks of the Isar river, in what is now Bavaria. By 1487, it had established its own Beer Purity Law almost 30 years ahead of King Ludwig's Reinheitsgebot. Such was the start of a grand brewing tradition. The styles most popular and prevalent in Munich are Pils, Helles, Weizen and Export, with a few specialties and seasonals thrown in here and there for good measure. By 1860 there were 18 breweries in Munich producing 800,000 hectoliters a year. By 2001, 9 bigger players produced more than 5,500,000 hectoliters, though there still are approximately 18 breweries in the general vicinity of the city. Like anywhere these days, bigger fish gobble up the small fish, but the beer still flows.
There are some tasty beers to be found in Munich's many large and small beerhalls and brewpubs. One just needs to seek out these places outside of the time frame of Oktoberfest in order to appreciate them properly, or at least start earlier in the day, before the crowds descend. One such place is Ayingers Speis und Trank, a much more civilized pub than its neighbour, the Hofbräuhaus, just across the square. They boast six beers on tap, plus their special Oktoberfest, all made in Aying, in the north part of the city. Their Pils is excellent - light, clean and refreshing, with a nice hop nose, pale gold colour, a balanced hop bitter palate, very effervescant, strong legs and a crisp, dry finish. Also excellent is the Kellerbier, an unfiltered, naturally carbonated and cellar-aged treat. A hazy, pale yellow colour, with a malt accented nose and palate, fully flavourful and well balanced, with some hints of hop and fruitiness. Their Altbier Dunkel is also very tasty. It has creamy head that leaves good lacing. It is full bodied with a malty aroma, velvety smooth mouthfeel, well rounded fruity palate with notes of roasted malt and is clear, but auburn brown in colour. We lunched on the local sausages and sauerkraut, watching a team of dray horses pull a wagon of wooden beer barrels through the square.
The other great pub we visited was Der Pschorr, a lovely and large wood floored room near the Viktualien Markt. Here they served Hacker-Pschorr Edelhell, a special lager aged and served in oak barrels on ice. Beautifully clean and clear straw yellow in colour, brilliant white head and loose lacing with a bright mouthfeel, especially on the tip of your tongue. Well balanced with subtle hints of apple and wood and a long, lovingly dry finish. The Export Dunkel offered up some tinges of sourness in its aroma, that translated into a malty palate hinting of dried fruit with some caramel and roasted malt tones that spread over your entire tongue. Deep, clear brown with ruby hues and a white head that leaves little to no lacing, but remains on the beers surface to the bottom of the glass. This medium bodied brew has some sweetness in its long,lingering finish. I do wish there was more time (and less crowds) to visit many of the other fine establishments in this great beer city. Next time...
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